need a shield? just read the signs

If you were a Viking, you probably wouldn't have much trouble deciphering York or figuring out where to go when you needed a shiny new shield for your next raid. The street layout hasn't really changed much since Viking times, just expanded. Many of the streets still use quite literal Viking naming conventions like Coppergate (Cup or Barrel Maker's Street in Vikingese), Skeldergate (Shield Maker's Street), and Stonegate (literally Stone Street).

It's thought the Vikings named Stonegate based on Roman pavers that were still in place when they captured the city. It's one of the few streets in York that follows the original Roman layout. Then, and now, this was one of the most polished streets in York. Even in Medieval times, this was the playground for the literary elite with high-end shopping for the women and coffee houses to occupy the men while they shopped. More popular in Victorian times, coffee was expensive and rare, a status symbol only the rich could afford. Now, one of the 3 free-standing Starbucks is located on the corner of Stonegate.


Barely a block away was the other extreme. Once known as “GROPE c . . t!” Lane, Grape Lane was the medieval red light district, frequented by the lesser clergy. St Benet’s Church was also located here and owned many of the run down houses of ill repute in "Grope Lane." Coincidentally Grape Lane leads to Swinegate, the old pork market. I guess the pigs (ahem, men) must have felt right at home! Today they've cleaned up their act and now feature pricey restaurants and swanky stores.


In addition to very literal street names, sculptural "signage" functioned as retail wayfinding around the city, identifying the contents within. Some still survive, even if they don't jive with the current store's merchandise.


Minerva, Roman goddess of wisdom + wise owl + stack of books = book store. The first one known to be on this site was owned by John Foster in about 1580. Considering the time, he had a commanding collection of around 3,000 books.


Bible = book store. The Bible dates to 1682 and it's known that York's premier bookshop was in this spot in the 18th and 19th centuries.


American Indian = tobacco shop. The Indian was an effective icon since tobacco originally came from the US. Good to know we're responsible for poisoning lungs around the world.


Devil + chains = printer's shop. With books, come presses (or vice versa). The first printer came to York in 1480. A traditional sign for a printer, it's thought that this sculpture, dating from the 1700s, might be symbolic of the youngest apprentice position still referred to in some places as the "printer's devil." Other people think of it as a scapegoat for misspellings and spacing errors on the cumbersome old hand-lettered presses. Maybe that's why he's chained up outside. I think I'll try that as an excuse the next time I make a spelling mistake on a project—I swear the devil made me do it! Today the Evil Eye Lounge and some goth-like stores surround this little devil so it's still appropriate, but in an entirely different context.

So, while a Viking would have no problem locating the street he needed to buy his shield, he may just find that the store closed long ago. Maybe York should consider updating some of their street names to make it less confusing for the Vikings, or easier on the modern invaders. Let's see, there'd be Fashiongate, Shoegate, Accessorygate, Foodgate, Souvenirgate etc. but it sure doesn't have the same ring to it.